Implementing the design houses’ typically experimental take on the subject of self-identity, Acne Studios presented a collection that merged historically-inspired pieces with futuristic design ideals for its new spring/summer 2022 collection.
It was experimentation that combined four themes, each playing with different materials and techniques. These include chiffon, leather, plaid, lingerie, touched-up knits, and boundary-pushing corsets.
Jonny Johansson (creative director at Acne Studios), stated in a press release that “We live in an age of self-identity and of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative, hard and grounded in handcrafts which are then subverted.”
The transition between seasons is indicated by subtle colours. Autumn hues of browns and beige, as well as creams and creams, are the most prominent. They occasionally clash with brighter greens or blues in brief intervals to provide a welcome contrast.
Structured, well-fitting leather items were complemented by chiffon shirts or full-length printed gowns. Detail-oriented trench coats and mini dresses with patchworked details were made from leather in a variety of irregular designs. They also featured lace-up features that mirror the floatier versions.
Corsets were a key part of the collection. Some corsets featured baroque floral patterns that are reminiscent of medievel-like garments but with futuristic twists. Traditional handmade designs were preserved in their original form, but with minimal bodily constriction. The historically-rich garment was given a new purpose and life by being styled with frayed knits, deconstructed skirts, and sheer wrapped dresses.
Longjohn-inspired trousers with a subdued plaid pattern were another reference to the past. This pattern was also used in panelled tops, skirts and other mesh bases to create a contrast to their mesh base. Garter socks with corset lacing were another example of lingerie influences.
The line featured both knitted and handcrocheted pieces. There were also diamond-sewn and rough techniques that created a variety of irregular looks. Many knitted coords graced runway in simple colour schemes that emphasized their figure-enhancing qualities.
Watch the full PFW SS22 show of Acne Studios below.