Copenhagen Fashion Week is fast becoming one of the most coveted emerging fashion showcases. Last week was the conclusion of the Spring 2022 edition. Brands like Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen defined the style of Copenhagen with brightly printed dresses and a lot of cool denim. There was also an emphasis on volume with oversized puff sleeves, dramatic cascading dresses and a lot of volume.
Although we have come to associate Copenhagen with cool and effortless over the years, Copenhagen is currently the scene of an aesthetic revolution.
The designer Stine Goya says that the Copenhagen fashion scene has evolved a lot since 2006 when she founded the brand. “Back then, Scandinavian design was synonymous with minimalism, muted colors, simple shapes and classic finishes. But now, it’s a completely different vibe.”
There is no better proof that Copenhagen’s fashion scene “is more vibrant and fascinating than ever” Stine Goya’s recent show, which featured mismatched colors as well as more prints. Although the label has shown a wide range of patterns since its inception in 2006, this season’s show was marked by the intensification of the hues and the ways in which different prints were combined. Think: A single look featuring three abstract prints – a pastel swirl vest, a geometric-embellished sweater vest, and a skirt covered in painterly strokes. Bold checkerboard knits were paired with bold, ditsy flowers.
Goya points out that while the evolution of Scandi-chic is attributed to the many brands that have entered it in the past 15 years, there is also a “hunger for more playful, joyous design” now, one year and a quarter after the pandemic.
Ditte, who is one half of the husband-wife team behind Ganni, also agrees. She says that the new collection is an antidote for staying at home and locking down. It’s clothing to dance in and to be seen in, including slinky, silky tops and bra tops. Many of us look forward to dressing up again.
The brand that is synonymous with cute, colorful knitwear and little leopard dresses showed this collection with ultra-wearable pieces. You can mix and match puffy elasticized straps with fishnet skirts and ruffled corsets with boxy shorts and crochet tops.
There is little to no indication that CFW designers are trying to abandon their roots as the fashion world continues to follow the Copenhagen scene. CFW designers adopted a more polished look this season, but the Danish-inspired pairings that have been the hallmark of CFW style remain. Helmstedt, for example, sent models down the runway wearing pretty pastels and bare feet. The style set opted for flat sandals, loafers with chunky soles, and comfortable sneakers to replace heels at other shows. Cecilie Bahnsen is a household name who has been focusing on this idea recently.
The designer is well-known for her floppy silhouettes and relaxed approach to fashion. The studio’s girls will wear one of our couture filcoupe puff sleeves blouses with gray sweatpants and Suicoke sandals. Later, they will put on one of the gowns with their favorite pair of sneakers that they have owned since high school. It’s a mix of comfort and couture, old and new.
Unlike heels and wearing mini-printed dresses with excessive accessories was the fashion trend of the past, CFW designers have opted to be minimalist with cool details this season.
“Copenhagen style is driven primarily by gut instinct and the weather. Goya says that it’s all about feeling good and balancing comfort and practicality with self expression. “Copenhageners aren’t afraid to take risks. Mixing is important, but not necessarily matching. It’s also about living a lively and active lifestyle.”
There is still a common thread, despite the evolution. Barbara Potts (half of Saks Potts), says that it is important that every piece that we make has a practical element. She is well-known for her vibrant leather coats and holographic sets, in neon orange and green. “Copenhagen is a place where you must be there. We bike around, and we are too practical. While we love to dress up, we also need to be practical. Copenhagen girls love to be mobile, comfortable and take the opportunity to go everywhere,” says the designer.
These practical ideals are represented by entire brands that now make up the official fashion week schedule. Rains was established in 2012, and is a great example. Rainproof means that all items are waterproof. “True functionality is grounded in logic and simplicity.” Tanne Vinter, the Danish brand’s head for design, explains that their functional and minimal designs reflect these values. Ask many people around the globe to describe Scandi’s aesthetic. Most will point out clean lines and minimal colors. Today, Copenhageners are experimenting with these archetypes to create their own unique looks.
The new look is as versatile as it is functional and wearable, but with high fashion twists that make it feel more sophisticated than your usual comfort wear.
“The Copenhagen aesthetic embodies both the utility and comfort that our garments encapsulate,” Bahnsen says. “There is handcrafted detailing and couture fabrics. But, on Monday, we still wear these dresses with old tennis shoes. We then hop on our bikes and tie the sides of the gown with hair ties so that it doesn’t get caught between the spokes of our wheels.”
