Although the lockdown fashion headlines might suggest that we’ve been living in big cotton shorts, which is what Carrie Bradshaw wears while she brushes her teeth with Big In Sex and the City, at certain lingerie labels it’s quite the opposite. Agent Provocateur is a brand that has brought frills and thrills to our knicker drawers for over a decade. It reports extraordinary sales of its signature filthy elegant sets, and accessories.
The AP woman didn’t go full on sweatpants. Joggers were worn by the AP woman with Lorna plunge bra – a bestseller underwear that Beyonce wore during her 2017 pregnancy reveal photo. These are not granny pants. Rather, while some enjoyed the hug of the high-waisted, an army of Provocateurs shifted gear to undergarments even racier than her usual beribboned trimmings.
Sarah Shotton, the company’s creative director, has been with the company for nearly two decades. She took over the creative helm in 2010 after Serena Rees and Joe Corre parted ways. This is not surprising as she loves spicy lingerie sets. The exquisitely designed lace confections she creates will make you feel confident, special and sexy. After a long year of sitting on the couch, who wouldn’t want a little boost?
Shotton says, “Everything just became too real.” People wanted more joy in life.” Kinkier sets began to fly off the shelves after seeing spikes in fun, cheerful pieces. “Underwear transforms you and makes you feel good about your body and yourself… It kind of fulfils your alter-ego,” asserts the woman behind Beyonce’s crystal “whale tail” G-string in her Vogue December 2020 shoot.
Customer feedback is a loyal source of information – More basques Suspenders! Corsets! This speaks for itself. Shotton knows her customers inside and out, even though she was first employed in fashion as an answering machine for AP. She still takes measurements in-store. After feeling embarrassed about her cleavage for most of her life, Shotton knows how to design for real women. Shotton is proud of her curves, and she has the largest underwear drawer in the business. Her mission has been to empower others. This is how AP’s playfulness comes about.
This celebration of womanhood is at the heart and soul of Vogue. Billie Eilish’s June 2021 shoot featured it as the main theme. All custom Mugler conceal and reveal bodysuits, VivienneWestwood corsetry, and satin Burberry bodies that reflected her strong, sensual femininity. We are buying into body positivity and the corset sales spike that followed the magazine’s initial on-sale date is a sign of this. It’s not about the lingerie if that’s the headline for this year.
Rihanna, the influencer of the influencers, has been cleaning out our drawers ever since her inclusive brand empire focused on the underwear market. The conglomerate pledged support to Savage X Fenty after LVMH closed down the luxury fashion house of the businesswoman in February. This was less than two years since its original launch. L Catterton, a private equity firm, led a $115million Series B round of fundraising for the underwear arm. We don’t know what says super duper smalls are selling if that doesn’t do it.
Shotton says, “It’s an exciting time for lingerie.” She claims that if she had been told five years ago that push-up bras and balconettes would be in fashion, she wouldn’t have believed you. She also points out the runway’s revival in ’90s and 2000s trends as a key factor in promoting the desire to show more skin. Paris Hilton, the Noughties poster girl, was the first to model AP’s custom offering on her wedding day. Customers who desire more from their suspender belts can now choose the colour, beads, and beading of their custom-made designs. Lyst reports that searches for “embellished”,’sequin’ and ‘glitter bras have increased by 27% since November.
Thong-wearing savages will pay hundreds of pounds to get a tiny investment. After the 2008 recession, AP’s custom edit was launched. The then-CEO criticized the team for not being well-informed. It was immediately sold out. Shotton shares that after the hardships experienced, people want beautiful bespoke pieces or the closest thing to that.” He expects great success in this field. A bra with matching capelet is a top-tier AP buyer. You shouldn’t either.
